![]() so if i did not want to spend hours at the grinder getting rid of hammer marks as I learned pretty quick angle grinders are best used for cleaning off Damascus when cutting and stacking, cutting material or when you're making huge swords from anime or video games. However, the one downside to Palmgren 2" x 42" Belt, 6" Disc bench finishing machine when I bought it was i had to widen the housing so it would except a 36 grit zirconia belt and I did inform the manufacture of this issue so hopefully, it does not happen to anyone else. you can also hog off a lot of material by using the bottom drive wheel in a manner similar to how a buffer is used. The latter i feel is the best budget machine out there as its both direct drive (meaning the belt is driven directly by the motor which despite being the same horsepower as the other units I feel direct-drive sanders just have a bit more power to them and the belts last longer than 4x36. I am still using a budget machine and am now using a Palmgren 2" x 42" Belt, 6" Disc bench finishing machine. and quickly switched to a still cheap, steel general tools 4x36 belt sander, then switched to a wen of the same size but with a cast iron base, then a 1x30 wen. I started using a 4 1/2" black and decker angle grinder which quickly got relegated mainly to cutting off a portion of leaf spring or square stock and later got replaced later with a Dewalt which i feel is worth the price because of how easy it is to adjust so it does not get in the way of your work (always use the guard on your angle grinder). My reasoning is high powered grinders make it very very easy to get rid of any hammer marks and I feel that having one lessen the need to develop hammer control. However I also now feel its not something a new smith buy right off the bat. after 3 years of self-teaching, I finally took some smithing classes in preparation for making a blade for the journeyman performance test and i finally got the chance to use a high powered grinder and now hope to get one myself as soon as I can. I have been meaning to post this for some time. Bill Moran School of Bladesmithing at Texarkana College.I'm going to repeat steps 1 through 3 myself, and maybe check to make sure the ceramic piece I added to my platen is square as well. So Rocko, try the first 3 steps and see if that helps. It's like chasing a will-o-the-wisp, honestly. Not certain that worked as hoped.Īnd at the end of it all the wheels seem larger diameter on one rim than they are on the other, so the belt drifts. ![]() I tried fixing this in a vice by squaring the face to the arms using a right angle. No biggie.īut now looking at the platen from the top, as it relates to the belt, mine is twisted so that the right edge of the platen is closer to the belt than the left. ![]() ![]() ![]() Simply loosen the bolts, slide the arms, and tighten. Looking at the platen from the side, taking the plastic cover off of course, the platen face is adjustable to square to the belt so that there is uniform distance between the platen face and the belt. Detaching the platen by the 2 bolts, and adding washers to the top bolt pushed the top of the platen further to the right, reversing the twist, but now the belt tracking must be adjusted so the edge of the belt is in line with the edge of the platen. This is fixed by shims or washers between the arm and the belt cover. Canted meaning, looking at it from the front with the belt configured to run vertically, the platen face is rotated counterclockwise by a few degrees. The platen base is both canted and twisted. and Rocko chime in if this is the same for you. ![]()
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